2nd gen coil over install
I chose the coil over kit from www.k2rd.com It was everything I wanted for a great price.
KYB AGX Shocks, coil overs, and front camber plates. The kit comes with a rear camber link as well but I already had one.
Here they are as they arrived, The coil over sleeve's are just placed over the shock body Just like the Ground Control kits.
The only thing that is missing is the rear upper mount. I reused the one off my stock rear shocks. You need a spring compressor and an air gun to get it off. I'd recommend to just take your rear shocks to a local shop after you pull them off, in another car of course :), and have them pull it apart, unless of course you have access to air tools and a spring compressor :) once off it is easy to install on top of the new coilovers, no spring compressor needed.
Here is my rear mount on the new coil overs. There is a decent gap between it and the spring but once the car's weight is on it, it doesn't matter.
The rear shocks are easy to install. The hardest part is removing the speaker and speaker cover so you can access the top of the shock that is underneath.
First step is to jack up the car (not on the control arm!) to get the wheel off the ground. Under neither there is one bolt on each bottom of the shock. Undo this bolt and remove it, don't worry the shock will stay in place since it rests on a stud.
Next step is to remove the 2 bolts on the top that hold the shock to the body.(after speaker is removed) be carefull as once off it might want to drop. Try and hang onto the shock.
(ya ya, the pic was taken after, there would have been nuts there :) chances are you won't have the rear strut brace so ignore that in the pic)
Once those 2 nuts are off, now you can get underneath again and prey the bottom of the shock towards the middle of the car to get it off the stud. Look out it will drop!!. With a bit of trickiness you can get the shock out from under the car without taking off the tire. Install is the reverse!
You you proably have to put the jack under the rear control arm to raise it up after the bottom nut is on. other wise the top ones are too low and don't reach to top to bolt it back in.
The front gets a bit harder. Jack up the front and get it on stands. (Not on the control arm!) and remove the front tires.
On the top of the shock, there are 4 nuts holding the strut to the body. Don't touch the one in the middle!
On the bottom there are 2 main bolts (yellow), 2 smaller ones if you have ABS (red), and a clip holding the brake line.
(Both bolts should be like the bottom one, that smaller top one is an eibach camber bolt I was using, Did NOT like it!! came lose a few times)
First step is to loosen the top 4 nuts, but don't remove them all the way. Next remove the brake line clip on the strut, it'll just pop off with a screw driver. Then the line should be able to be removed from the strut holder. Remove the 2 ABS bolts and move the ABS line out of the way. Then remove the 2 main bolts. Be carefull the brake rotor/hub might collapse and fall downwards after they are both removed. Or you might have to pry the strut off of the hub. Once those are off and the strut is hanging loose. You can now remove the 4 nuts on top But be aware it will drop!! hang on from below as you remove the last one. And keep it away from the brake and ABS lines as it comes down.
Now just put it back together :) You can see the brake clip in this pic. On the front, the left and right shocks are different. I didn't see any markings on the AGX's though... So I had to compare the new ones to the olds ones. The ABS holes and the brake line clip are at different places.
For the camber plates. You want the hole facing more towards the middle of the car to give you the most neg camber adjustment. It just spins on the shock, so if it's facing the wrong way just turn it before you stick the bolts though the holes.
Now that everything is installed. It's time for setup :) put the wheels back on and get the car on the ground. Take a look at the height. To raise and lower it. Jack it up again at that corner to get the weight off that spring. and turn the perch to raise or lower. Once you get the height you want all around. You need to tighten the allen key bolt on each perch to stop it from turning. I'd suggest putting some antiseeze on these so down the road you will be able to remove them for further adjustments.
For best results, Read the corner weighting and alignment topics coming soon!
As of now I've only driven about 5 mins on them so no comments yet :)