I used about 23 feet of speaker wire running it up the passenger fender, across the fire 
wall, and up the driver side door way.  I probably used more then 15 feet of power too.  
Never hurts to buy more.
I used 10 gauge power wire and 12 gauge speaker.
You will also want a soldering iron.  I soldered all my connections.

OK, first off let's run the wire.  The speaker wire needs to start at
the airbox location in the engine bay and end by the driver's side rear shock
tower.  The 12 gauge wire needs to come from the postive battery terminal to the
same spot (don't hook it up yet! :)  Hook the inline fuse between the positive
terminal and the 12 gauge wire - you always want the fuse close to the
battery.  I used a 15 amp fuse, and it seems to be adequate.  You might want to run both wires 
at the same time - makes it a little easier.


Next, it's time to move the resistor and relay.  Remove the airbox. 
There's a metal bracket that has a relay and a aluminium box that looks like a
heat sink.  It connects to the wiring harness with a large rectangle white
connector.  


Don't worry,  you only want one of these 
connections ;)

Let's label these wires, as per the shop manual.  Diagram below is
on the relay/resistor side:

 ____--____
 | E  C  A |
 | F  D  B |
 -----------
On my 89 turboII (canadian if thats makes a diff)  A,C,E were all blue w/ red strips
B and F was blue w/ green, D was green w/red

 OK, cut the connector off the wiring harness.  Leave enough slack on
both sides of the cut - we'll be re-splicing the connections in.  Connect the
speaker wire to C and D (one wire to C, the other to D).


So, now you've got your resistor and relay with a cut off connector. 
Move to the back of the car.  Remove the driver's side rear speaker assembly
and the plastic trim above where the jack goes.  Pull the covering on the
side of the hatch area forward.  

At this point you might want to pull out the fuel pump to clean the little filter on it.
It was pretty easy.  or you might want to change the pump for a high flo one ;)
just remove the 4 screws holding the cover,  pull out the wire connection.  pull off the gas 
lines (might want to depressurize frist) undo the screws underneith,  and gently pull out 
the pump. I just ran the filter under water.  I am sure there is a way to take it off but 
mine was pretty clean so I didn't bother trying.




On the side of the shock tower closest to the
rear of the car is a wiring harness with a white connector.  This is the
connection for the fuel pump.  There's 4 wires there - 2 for power and ground, and 2 for
the fuel level sender.  On the fuel pump side of the wiring, the two topmost
thicker wires are power and ground.  I believe power had a white stripe and
ground is just black.  You might want to test it first and make sure you've got
the right wires.  Cut both of them about 6 inches down from the connector - you
might need to cut off some of the covering around the wires.  Time to hook up
the relay.

yes the pump power is a black wire with a white strip, ground was straight black.  the other 2 
I had were red and blue,  both were smaller and for the sending unit.

Here's what you want to do - use the power lead that normally comes
into the fuel pump and the ground on the car side of the wiring harness to
turn the relay on and off.  Run the 12 gauge wire from the battery terminal into the
relay.

The relay has 4 connectors.  Two are for power and ground to activate the relay, and the other 
is the circuit that the relay activates.  The lead that normally activates the fuel pump should
go to switch the relay on, with the opposite connector going to ground.  The output from the 
fuel pump resistor relay (see below) goes into the 3rd connector, with the lead to the fuel 
pump going to the final connector.

here is my relay (wraped in lots of tape ;)  I ran the 10 gauge power in from battery and out 
to resistor. I used the stock + and - wires that I cut off the fuel pump connection to turn the
relay off and on.  you can see my speaker wire going back to the resistor.  The green wire is
the power wire from the resistor to the pump. notice the shrink wrap, also a good idea.



Time to wire up the resistor relay.  Take the wires from terminals A
and E and splice them together.  Take the wires from terminals B and F and
splice them together.  Attach the speaker wire you ran from the front of the car
to terminals C and D (one to C, the other to D)(same ones as in the front).  Run a wire from 
the relay (the opposite  terminal that the 12 gauge wire is on) and attach that to terminals 
A and E that are spliced together.  Run a wire from the spliced terminals B and F to the fuel
pump positive lead.  You can ground the fuel pump separately or just
attach it to the same ground wire it used in the past on the harness.

I grounded the pump in the trunk with black 10 gauge as you can see in above pic.

After you get the fuel pump resistor relay wired up, make sure to put it in a spot where it has 
plenty of "breathing room".  It gets REALLY got and can melt the insulation off wiring (as 
Bruce found out).  I nylon-tied it in the area where the antenna motor is; it's just got metal 
around it, nothing meltable.

This is a pic looking down into the trunk to see my resistor.  I just undid a nut there, held 
the resistor and put the nut back up to hold it.  the resistor is in open air and I moved the 
connection higher with a zapstrap as the wires were touching it. To answer your question "why 
is there 2 greens?" it is because my red 10 gauge power from the realy only goes half way to 
the resistor,  then changes to the smaller  green one.  this was because i only had a tiny bit 
of wire left at the resistor connection and figured  it would be easier to splice thin wire 
in instead of 10 gauge.

OK, go back to the front of the car.  There should be 4 extra wires
where you cut the resistor relay off.  Splice the wires that were on A and B
together, and the wires that were on E and F together.  This lets the signal from
the main fuel pump relay travel back to the fuel pump area, and it activates
the relay there to bring the new 12 gauge wire online with the pump.

Time to test it.  Get a jumper wire and jumper the fuel pump check
connector - it's a yellow two-prong connector on the passenger's side shock tower
in the engine bay.  It might be buried a bit, so keep looking.  After
jumping the connector, turn the key to "On" (don't start it) and go back to the
hatch.  You should hear the fuel pump running.  If not, check your wiring for good
connections.

I was very happy when mine turned on first try.  Now as long as everything stays connected...

Yes, this is a VERY complicated procedure, and you have to keep a lot
of things straight.  If you have a shop manual, turn to pages 4B-70 and 4B-71 -
there's a really nice diagram of the whole setup there, along with a diagram of
the fuel pump resistor relay.  This job took me just a Saturday afternoon.

I cound have really used one of these diagrams :) ah, It took me a sunday afternoon, evening
and night...  

The prinicpal of the idea is moving the fuel pump resistor relay near
the back and splicing a relay carrying a REAL voltage into the equation.  This
method keeps all the factory safety features (air flow meter cutoff, check
connector, etc.)  It also allows the resistor to function properly.  When the
relay for the resistor is open, all the current goes through the resistor and is
dropped to ~9 volts.  When the relay closes, it makes a path with no resistance
through that part of the circuit, and we all know that electricity takes the path
of least resistance.

Results?  Well, I'm now seeing over 13v at the fuel pump with no electrical load at wide open 
throttle.  With stereo cranked, headlights/foglights on, AC blowing, etc.  I see about 12.5 
volts.  Sweet!

If any part of this is unclear, please let me know.  It's a pretty
complicated procedure with a lot of wire-deciphering, and I think I got the gist
of it down. This procedure is VERY necessary with upgraded fuel pumps and fuel
pressure regulators as Bruce Lewis found out - the stock wiring just can't
deliver enough current.  Hopefully this $10-20 mod will help save some modded
engines out there! :)

after I read all this the first time off Dale's site I was confused and a little bored ;)I sat 
down and made a diagram to make things make sense and seem alot clearer and easier. I don't 
have a scanner so it's just a dig pic of a piece of paper.