2nd gen Crane Cams fireball HI-6 ign. box.
This was a very easy mod except for mounting the box it self.. There is nowhere to put it. I see a lot of people put them on top of the fan shroud when they are using a cone filter and have removed the intake pipe. But I didn't want to remove mine. I also wanted it somewhere else in case I ever get an E-fan and remove the shroud.
I followed Dave's write up at fc3s.org except I mounted it different since I still have the plastic rad air deflector.
When I opened the box I was very impressed when I saw the bag of things it comes with. Everything you could even need to install it. I only used about 1/4 of the stuff. The only thing I added was some bolts (came with screws) and some plastic wire loom to help protect the wires and make it look better.
I mounted it inside my 89 front bumper. I have seen the 87-88 ones and it will not fit there. It *just* fit flat in front of the metal cross beam after a few relays where moved out of the way. Also the plastic rad deflector (with the little intake scoop) was removed first. I drilled holes from underneath through the airdam and managed to get 2 bolts on it out of 4. It's not going to move,. it barely moved before it was bolted.
I ran the big red power wire through the battery "intake" by making a small hole in the tube. It was grounded inside the bumper to a frame bolt that held the bumper on. I ran the 4 wires coil wires (small black, orange, white, small red) inside the yellow wire loom. You also need the blue wire (cyl select) I looped up the extra wires and covered the ends so they can't ground and zaped them together. I don't like to cut things because if you do you will always need them in the future ;) as you run the 4 coil wires and blue one you have to splice the blue wire into the red coil wire. This gives the blue wire +12v which tells it to run in 4 cylinder mode witch I have been told is the way to do it. If you don't splice the wire it will run in 8 cylinder mode. I actually ran it like this for the first few weeks and noticed a small improvement going from 8 to 4. plus the led no longer flashes at idle in 4 mode.
Once the rad deflector and relays are back on you can barely even see it.
Wiring the coil was very easy. My camera ran out of batteries when I was doing it :( but here is the final pic. for better pics go to the fc3s page listed at the top. basically you remove the 2 wires going from the bottom (ignitor) to the top (coil). Cut off the ring terminals of the short wires and add a male or female connector to each one. Then crimp on the opposite connector to the red and white wire. Now plug them together as shown. Now to the coil you add 2 metal clips that came with the box. Then crimp on female connectors to the thin black (thick is ground) and orange wire. and plug them into the coil.
While installing this I noticed that my added battery ground goes right through the plug wires as shown above. I'm not sure if these interfere with each other or not but it can't be too good. I moved the wire and grounded it to the coil bolts instead.
After driving for a couple days I can honestly say I don't know if it did anything or not. But I'm not the best one to tell... My car has always been very smooth and strong so I guess I can't expect much better. It's a nice safety thing to have in my quest for more boost/power.
<One month later...>
After going through about 5 tanks of gas I can say it's given me in improvement of about 40-50 km's a tank (25-30miles?) If this keeps up the unit will pay for itself within a year. So overall this is a very good upgrade to do.